Sucre

Hey Guys!
We decided to spend a week in Sucre, as we had heard from lots of other travellers that it was a great place for Spanish school. Plus when you're on the road all the time travelling, the idea of being in one place for a whole week is really appealing.

The night before we cruised into Sucre was a really bizarre one. We had ended up miscalculating on our route and found ourselves in the absolute middle of nowhere. It was still another 5 hours to Sucre, and we decided to just stop for the night. We found a place out in the country side on the bald-ass altiplano. It puts the Prairies to shame. We hadn't wildcamped in Bolivia yet, as it was pretty cheap even to get rooms, plus in poorer countries it can be unsafe. So when we were all set up and in bed we were slightly perturbed when a vehicle drove by super erratically, flashing their blinkers, hazards, and swerving all over the dirt road, getting high-centered on rocks and taking FOREVER to get going again. It was pretty obvious they were wasted. Never in my life had I seen someone drive that drunk, it was ridiculous. They drove by a couple times that night, and I was super freaked out and did not sleep much. The next morning we were up early to get the heck out of dodge, and the same guy showed up in his vehicle, still driving like an idiot. He got out and started chatting with Jared like it was the most normal thing in the world, asking about our travels and which way we were heading. He drunkenly pointed out the direction of Sucre, Potosí and Oruru for us (thanks for the hot tips......). Then he topped it all off with a nice handshake, which Jared said was very sticky. Looking back on it now, we laugh at old 'sticky fingers', but at the time I thought we would have to make a mad dash out of there at 3 am.......and hence this is why we didn't do much wildcamping in Bolivia!



Villages we drove through on the way to Sucre.....we were really out there 😕






We got into Sucre that night and found a nice AirBnb. Anything was going to be an improvement over the night before, but this place was really nice because the woman always wanted to speak Spanish with us, and it was good practice. We also had a great view of the city from the rooftop terrace, and we would catch lots of sunsets from up there.



Our week of Spanish classes were really great, Sucre is a cool place and it didn't hurt that it was all pretty cheap!

The picture below is of the Casa de la Libertad, it is important because of the bell tower, the sight of the 'first cry for freedom' in Latin America. It was here on May 25, 1809 that one of the revolutionaries demanding independence from Spanish rule climbed the bell tower and rang it so hard it cracked. Bolivia did not become independent until 1825, but the event fomented the desire for freedom in the people, and it set off an unstoppable chain of events that eventually led to independence.



One of the other highlights of the touristy things we did that week was to visit the Museo de Arte y Indigena, which showcased the amazing weaving talents of the Jal'qa and Tarabuco cultures of the area.



You couldn't take pictures inside the museum, a rule I sometimes obide by, like today. This was from the gift shop. You could actually purchase these modern-day weavings made with all the ancient techniques, and they were practically giving them away for 500-1000 cdn. We didn't buy any, because it's too much for our wee backpacker budget, but the thought of what that would cost in Canada is a little mind blowing!



These little figures were no bigger than the tips of my fingers, and there was an entire tapestry like that.





Admiring some traditional dress. Men are actually very involved in this art of weaving, and can do as much as the women.


A weaving in progress



One really cool aspect of these weaving was that they could be viewed from all four directions once completed, and there were little figures that would be 'right side up' no matter which way you looked at it. How complicated would that be to be thinking about 4 directions as you are weaving?!?



A great view over the city from the mirador right beside the museum



Walking a rather steep street back home



Doing some Spanish homework on the terrace. Not bad for $11 a night.



There a so many nice buildings to see walking around. You just get your camera put away and it's out again 😁






And before we knew it our week of rest, relaxation and Spanish school was over. Next up was the silver mines of Potosí, full of history and still operational today.

Until Next Time!

Huyana Potosi: Pretending to be Mountaineers

The first time we were in Bolivia, we ran into a German guy that had climbed a mountain around La Paz. He showed us the pictures and right then we decided we were doing it on our return back. At this point, we are trying to really do things that we haven't done before. Climbing a proper mountain was one of those things.
We booked a 3 day/2 night trip and got ready to go.
The first morning, we met at the travel agency and met our fellow "mountaineers." It was all of our first times climbing at this altitude. We jumped in the van and made our way of the twisting, steep streets of La Paz. We stopped for a couple provisions along the way. At our first stop, I thought I recognized a big guy with a red beard so I went over to have a closer look. Crazily enough, it was Jaime and Karol who we had bumped into for the 3rd time. Traveling is crazy sometimes as you will run into the same people after months of not seeing them. They were climbing the same mountain, just with a different company.



Our first stop with Huyana Potosi behind us.




There is a mine on the way and this is a graveyard of all the people that have died in the mine. A large portion of these people were shot by the dictatorship in the'60s when they were protesting against bad working conditions. Crazy, sad stuff.

We continued on a little bit more to the first base camp at around 4700 meters, had some lunch, and put on our gear. It was time for some practice on a glacier.






Walking around the glacier with ropes and crampons.



There was a straight up wall we climbed for fun. It was quite tiring.



Roberta doing her thing



And me doing min

Ripping up and down the ice cliff...fun stuff


A little photo op with Karol and Jaime.




We hiked back to the base camp where we stayed the night. You can actually do this in 2 days, but we wanted to give ourselves that extra day to acclimate a little more to the altitude.

I had a pretty good sleep that night, but Roberta unfortunately did not. We got up had some breaky, packed our bags, and headed for the next base camp.










There wasn't any snow at this point and it was quite warm, so we ended up carrying a lot of our gear which was a little heavy. With our heavy packs, we zigzagged up to 2nd base camp in about 2 hours. I was impressed at the pace of our whole group actually. We had a couple hours to kill so we spent them sharing travel stories with our group. At around 5, we had dinner and after it was off to "sleep" as we were getting up at midnight to make our accent attempt.




Roberta in front of our accommodation at 5200 meters.

There was basically no sleeping that happened for anyone. At that altitude it is very hard to sleep, and being a bit excited/nervous doesn't help. I could tell Roberta wasn't feeling that good as she didn't eat that much and was looking a bit pale. But she said she was alright so I left her be. We got all suited up and hiked about 10 minutes to where the snow started. At this point, we put on our crampons and linked ourselves together with the rope. It was our guide, Felix, in the front, Roberta in the middle, and me bringing up the rear. It was a nice clear sky with a bright almost-full moon lighting up the sky. The moon was so bright, I didn't even use a light once.
It was about 1:30 am when we started our accent. We went quite slow, taking the odd break. Being behind Roberta, I could tell she was feeling the effects of the altitude rather quickly. She was stumbling a bit and really breathing deeply. After about 30 mins, Felix stopped and asked us if we wanted to split up. I, of course, said no but Roberta said that we should. I knew then that she really wasn't good. She talked me into going with another pair. It was very difficult to leave her behind, but as she said " I want one of us to at least make it to the top." Felix said he would take care of her and they would keep going really slow and turn back if they had to.
I was now with José, the guide, and Nils from Switzerland. We slowly made our way up and up in the night. Taking small breaks here and there for water and snacks. We got into a good rhythm for a while. It was crazy how easily I was losing my breath, but stopping a lot makes you lose the rhythm. It felt like I was moving in slow motion but still losing my breath. Nils and I were similar fitness level so we both needed breaks around the same time which was great. He was getting colder quicker than though, so we would start up again pretty quickly. Crunch, crunch, breath, breath. It was just as much as a mental battle as it was a physical one. But I told myself that I was getting to the top of this mountain for the both of us.
I could see large crevasses in the moonlight as we continued. We had to use our ice axe a few places as it was rather steep. As we continued into the night and gained elevation, it got colder and much more wind. The stars were shining and there was a huge lightning storm off in the distance which the guide told us was over the jungle. Just crazy to think that we are up on a cold frickin mountain and the hot jungle is off in the distance. I don't know if the goosebumps were from the moment or the cold, but I just got them right now remembering this....
At this point we were at 6000 meters. Only 88 more to gain. The last 88 meters were on an exposed ledge though which was absolutely crazy. Being so tired and having the wind tearing at you while looking down the side of a mountain....wow.

As we came to the end the ledge, the sky was starting to get pink and bright. Perfect timing...
Upon arriving at the top, I became a bit emotional which was unexpected. I do know now why people climb mountains. It's almost an indescribable feeling




Crazy enough my phone wasn't frozen, so I could capture the moment a bit.






On the top....around 6:15 am




Wow. So I really just stood there and took in the moment...
After about half an hour, we started making our way back. We had only walked about 50 meters when Roberta popped out from around a rock about 2 meters from me. I lost it.....
I just could believe my eyes. We had a moment there that I will never forget. I unclipped from my group and clipped back up with Felix and Roberta for another round at the top!






Roberta, Felix, and I



Roberta on the final ridge as we descend.




The way down was much easier than the way up. We stopped for a few photos along the way and I'll let them do the talking....















Roberta showing me how she would take breaks on the way up. She explained how she would count to 100, then take a break. As she got higher, it was to 50 and then to 20 when she would take a break. But she never quit...



As I started taking this photo, an avalanche started which is what they are looking at.







I finished the day with two huge blisters on my big toes as my boots were just a bit too big for going down, but it was worth it.

This isn't really a "real" mountain hike that takes weeks to climb, but nonetheless it was an unforgettable experience. Like I said I do understand a bit why people put themselves through pain and suffering to get to the top of a mountain that takes weeks. The feeling at the top would be mind blowing.

I still don't believe Roberta made it. I was having a hard time myself and wasn't feeling the altitude as much.
When we fight, I call it stubbornness but now I know it's strength and determination.....


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