This blog includes the journey to Hué because as Jared alluded to in the last blog we decided to give this scootering craze a try and ride one of the more picturesque roads in Vietnam. We had picked up a Swede (Gustav) in Hoi An, so we were three people on two bikes with me navigating. One of my first moves as navigator was wrong, so we headed slightly more south than we needed to to get out of town- but not before we ran out of gas! There's this crazy rental system here in SE Asia where you get the bike and it's almost out of gas, and then you return it empty. However, it's super annoying because you usually don't have enough gas even to get to the nearest petrol station. So we bought some from one of the many 'gas carts' along the way (it's more expensive and reputedly watered down so we only got 1 L) and then properly filled up before leaving Hoi An. The road took us past the Marble Mountains, some karst cliffs right beside the sea. Relatively soon we found ourselves in Da Nang, and we rode the eastern side of it so we could be right along the ocean. They have these woven bamboo fishing boats there that are completely circular, they're like something a Hobbit would row around in.
We also noticed there was a group of 6 people (3 on each side) pulling a huge net in from the sea. We watched the whole process, it probably took 20 min, and there were maybe that many fish in the net when they pulled it in :s Seemed like a lot of work for that few fish.
We got back on the bikes and started to ascend the Hai Van Pass. After not too long we were awarded with some pretty stellar views. The rode climbed and climbed.
We brake for cows
There was a stream/waterfall that we hung out in for a while to cool off. I was so hot I wanted to go for a quick naked dip (it was far off the road people), but Gustav kept following me every time I went around a bend in the stream!
We stopped for lunch, did the usual 'sign language for food' routine and continued on. Now we had the choice of going on the crazy #1 highway or taking the more scenic route. Of course we chose the latter! The idea of being on the equivalent of the Deerfoot (but with zero shoulder and potholes the size of cars) with big Semis, all class of cars and trucks, plus motorbikes swerving in at out- and everyone going a different speed. Eesh!
The scenic route turned out to be rewarding in and of itself, lots of scenes of rural Vietnamese life. As Gustav put it, you really have to see this country from two wheels. Eventually the quality of the road deteriorated to goat trail so we turned off to brave busier highways. As luck would have it these were totally bearable and we made it into Hué rather uneventfully. Hurray!!
The next day we decided to check out the Imperial Citadel, the former imperial capital of Vietnam. It was home to the Nguyen Dynasty (pronounced without the g, it almost sounds like you're saying win). They ruled the area for about 150 years (~1802-1945). After that there was a little tussle with the French and then a not so little tussle with the Americans, in the end leaving this UNESCO World Heritage Site rather battered and bruised. Out of the original 160 buildings only 10 survived the Vietnam War. However, restoration work is ongoing and they are taking steps to restore its former glory.
Gate to pass through to enter the outer wall of the city
Outside of Thai Hoa Palace- they didn't let us take pictures inside, sorry folks! It was used for the emperors official receptions
Lazy tourists can ride this around instead of walking
In the Halls of the Mandarins- used to prepare for court ceremonies
That afternoon we visited a sprawling market selling just about everything- so long as it's cheap and not too high quality. Lots of foods and spices too.
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