Our stop in Cartagena was definitely a highlight. This walled city is absolutely full of history. The Spanish used it to hold their massive quantities of gold that they had plundered from the continent, and as a result the pirates were all about trying the rob it. Cartagena was originally founded in 1533, but it suffered a number of serious sacks by pirates, the French and the English. So they started building walls to fortify it, and they built a big fort just outside of it to defend the city. The walls were complete by the early 1700’s. The fort, San Felipe de Barajas, suffered a major attack attempt by the English in 1741, but they were not successful and the city of Cartagena remained under Spanish control. It continued to serve as a major trading port in the Indies, as well (sadly) for many African slaves brought to the continent.
Having a city that rich for that long definitely has it’s payoffs in terms of architectural splendour. It is also a UNESCO site, and is a real treat to walk around. There are Spanish balconies full of bougainvillea everywhere, narrow streets, and at night the cars are replaced by horse and carts to whisk the tourists around. Sure, it’s touristy, but it’s famous for a reason.
Iglesia San Pedro de Claver, a priest who dedicated his life to helping the African slaves. The woman in the brightly coloured dress in the foreground is a palenquera, a woman that sells fruit. Down in the Old Town, the fruit is pretty much just for show and they charge to have pictures taken with them.
The Plaza de la Aduana, which used to be a former marketplace for all of the goods coming off the ships, including Peruvian silver, African slaves, Incan gold. Classic colonial theme of ill-gotten gains.
Different door knockers indicated the vocation of the family within. A fish meant you were fishermen. A lion was for politics, a mermaid for the merchants, and lizards for the aristocracy.
I love how many palenqueras I was able to capture in everyday Cartagena life. There really are just that many of them around.
Pretending to be Belle while I look for Spanish books I could actually try to read
The Palace of the Inquisition. Coming from an edict from the Vatican, the colonies started conducting investigations into people accused of ‘heresy, superstition, witchcraft, and the like.’ This was a process that began in Europe in the 1100’s, became law in 1231, and was adopted by Spain in 1478. The Americas began Inquisition courts in the 1570s. The Court would receive complaints about other members of the community (usually anonymous), and they would have sole agency over investigation, imprisonment and subsequent punishments. Punishment was usually torture and then imprisonment. When you were released you had to wear a garment indicating your past crime. In the 200-some years the Cartagena council was in operation, they investigated 800 people and 5 were burned at the stake. I realize these numbers kind of pale in comparison to what was happening in Europe, but the population was much smaller here.
The Clock Tower
Hanging out on the walls watching the sun go down
A great view from up on La Popa, a monastery up on a hill overlooking the city
Inside the monastery
That night we took a horse and cart ride because I reaaallllyyy wanted to. It didn’t disappoint, I felt like I was transported back in time. However, I didn’t have to wear a big full skirt in that heat.
Another great sight was the Fort of San Felipe de Barajas. It was instrumental in staying off the English in 1741, and keeping Cartagena Spanish.
There is a complex system of tunnels underneath the fort to connect the separate parts. It was pretty hot and muggy down there and the rocks were really slippery. I can’t imagine actually trying to do real army-guy stuff down there.
Jared caught this dog appreciating the view
This is a monument to Blaz de Lezo, a one-eyed, one-armed, one-legged war hero that helped defend the Fort when it was under attack.
Appreciating the street art in Getsemani
This is Catalina, a famous Indian princess captured by the Spanish. The Colombians liken her to Pocahontas in the US. She is also the equivalent to the Oscar statue for Colombian film awards.
Cartagena is also celebrating their annual independence right now. They fill the streets with colourful costumes, pounding drums and throw flour all over each other!
Next adventure is a sail boat across the open ocean to Panama 🇵🇦
Until Next Time!
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