Thursday 22 December 2022

Haida Gwaii in September

Hey Guys!  

A place so nice we must blog twice! Ok, sorry that is so corny but this is truly an amazing place and deserves at least two blogs. We returned in September to have another chance at this special place. This time, we were joined by my Mom and Dad, which made it even more memorable. This time, we took the Inside Passage ferry to get up there. This leaves from Port Hardy and weaves its way between islands to reach Prince Rupert. Then you take a ferry the next day for Haida Gwaii. Definitely the 'long way around' but getting there was half the fun. 

We had a beautiful day of sun for the sailing, which was pretty lucky for September.

We spent a lot of time watching out the sides for whales, and we all saw a spout or two!

We had some fantastic views from the boat

It was a full day affair, we got on the ferry in Port Hardy shortly after 7:30 am and arrived in Port Rupert after 11 pm. A big day, indeed! Seth was a great sport for all of it. 
Here is the route we took, complete with the ferry to Haida Gwaii (Skidegate) the next day.
No surprises here, Jared was back to his old tricks. One massive bonus of this time of the year is that Jared actually keeps some of the fish he catches- so I can eat them! 
I don't think Seth was actually that thrilled to be daddy's little fishing companion here, but I don't think he is going to hold a grudge
I think this picture was taken because the fly in the mouth is special for the Tlell River. Again, all fishing related details need to be directed towards Jared. 
And look at the results! Big, delicious fish. That is my Dad on the right.

We took a day trip with my parents out to North Beach, one of the most famous beaches on Haida Gwaii. At the very eastern edge of this beach is Nai-kun or Rose Spit (pictured above). The narrow strip of beach stretches out to a disappearing point. The Haida believe this is where the first life began for their people. Check out the creation story below; 

Back at the beginning of time, when the water that once covered the earth subsided, only a raven survived. In his loneliness the bird combed the islands that broke the surface of the great sea, seeking companionship. Finally, when soaring over along a sandy beach, he heard faint cries emanating from a clamshell that had washed up on the shore. The raven swooped down and pried the shell open. To his great wonder, the sounds grew louder and louder, and the startled bird watched in amazement as several men clambered out.

Nai-Kun translates to 'the long nose of Nai,' which kind of fits for an 18 km long spit that just trails off into nothing. People call Haida Gwaii 'the edge of the world,' probably in part because of places like this.

                                        
The harbour in Daajing Giids (formerly Queen Charlotte City)

Sunset picture, as seen from the beach right beside the clinic

Speaking of clinic! We did to a little bit of work while we were up there! I got spoiled with some bigger surgeries and exciting emergencies. There was even an injured little saw-whet owl that needed some care before being sent down to Vancouver to a rehab facility. Seth really wanted to touch him!

Balance Rock

One of the coolest things we did was drive out to Rennell Sound. The beaches out here are absolutely stunning, completely massive and not another soul to be seen! 

What an action shot! 

Playing in the surf

Gregory Beach in Rennell Sound 

Seth remembered the pots and pans from last time. Especially now that he is more capable, he was all about them! 

Walking out to Yakoun Lake, navigating the roots

Culturally modified trees. The Haida take strips of bark and use them to weave baskets, hats, rugs and the like.

Spirit Lake trail. Seth riding in style

A massive bolete that was just hanging out on the road side! We ate some fresh, but my absolute favorite is to dry these guys and have them for soups and such. 

Here Seth is with his future wife, Annie. Look at how much they have both grown up!

Fast asleep on the Anvil Trail. Apparently this was also the day Jared saw a bear (!) 
I was working....
Another trip up Tow Hill, as Mom and Dad absolutely had to see this wonder. 
And one last one of our dream boat son at the foot of the Hiellen Pole. 

Until Next Time! 

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